八日的浪漫(多图多字)超毒!!——积家JLC 875和帕玛强尼PF 110
撰文:zlei99 爱表族资深会员圣经上说到上帝用七天创造了这世界, 哪第八天上帝做了什么呢? 我们这班凡人当然不敢猜测,这也许只有上帝自己才知道。 但是我确十分清楚积家创造了名动江湖的八日链, 积家为我们这帮爱表凡人带来了八日长动力的浪漫。当然表中的蓝血贵族帕玛强尼也早在上世纪九十年代就打造出它们的第一枚八日链机芯, 只不过产量极少面世这二十多年来鲜有人知晓。 刚好手上都有实物可以跟大家分享,稍作对比。
积家大翻转大日历八日链 VS 帕玛强尼卡帕加大八日链一个是棱角分明的长方形,一个是非圆非方的酒桶型。
积家乃制作方形表的佼佼者大翻转更是品牌的代名词。 酒桶壳滴水耳是帕玛强尼的签名作,一个是经典中的ICON,一个是新兴品牌中的蓝血贵族。
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积家面盘采用了传统制表盘制作的纽索纹(guilloche)工艺, 整表盘分外框,动显区,中框,中盘,日历窗,秒针盘构成,其制作十分繁复耗时,刻度的油墨十分饱满小字印刷精确,烤蓝钢指针点缀了银白色调的表盘。
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而帕玛的表盘制作也一点不马虎, 要经过三层加工才完成,还配上了手工镶嵌的高抛光18K白金刻度。
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指针的制作帕玛有着明显的优势,特别是动显针跟秒针其边缘打磨圆润饱满,由于这支积家表比帕玛早十年出生蓝钢针已经开始出现岁月的痕迹。
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由于帕玛表径比积家大一节上手的感觉明显偏大,以正装表的比例来说算有点大,然而它积家的棱角分明霸气外形一点也不会被比下。
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表扣作工应该是PF比较复杂零件众多,而且都作了高抛光的打磨。但是积家的线条优美,操作便利,特别是大板桥中间镂空,小板桥刚刚好可以叠近里面十分贴心。
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转过身来这是这次较量的最精彩部分。 JLC 875 机芯 对 PF 110 机芯。
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先来说说机芯参数:
JLC 875, 首发于2003 年,由手动双发条鼓提供192小时的动力28800震频,由 25颗红宝石一共218个零件构成。
PF 110, 首发于1998 年,由手动双发条鼓提供192小时的动力21600震频,由 30颗红宝石一共220个零件构成。
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手表机芯制作里面衡量高级机芯的最主观因素就是1.机芯形状是否和表壳对称,比方说圆表配圆芯,方表配方芯,酒桶表配酒桶芯。。。 2. 打磨是否美观,3,机芯零件布局是否合理。 很明显的在这些方面这两枚机芯都轻易的符合了这些标准。
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单从外观上看PF110机芯的画面感极强,线条优美,犹如天上的白云远处的山峰,和湖边的白浪推动着孜孜不倦的摆轮。而积家875机芯就充满了时代感,仿如铁幕下的时代巨轮急速的推着我我们向前飞奔。
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当镜头拉近来细看机芯零件的时候,不难发现PF的夹板打磨要比积家高出了两个等级。 积家只在夹板的边缘上作了45度的倒角并没作抛光,而帕玛却作的最高等级的弧面抛光+内尖角打磨。 显然积家不是不会作打磨但是它们对中低端机芯的夹板打磨一贯都没什么注重。 可能在这个价位里它们更专注于它们传动零件的制作。
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我们可以看到这两个机芯的宝石孔跟螺丝的边都做了高抛光处理, PF的螺丝是高抛光处理,而积家则采用了烤蓝处理。除了红宝石以外 JLC 和PF 都是世上罕有的能基本完成独立完整生产机芯的厂家,。
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微距看积家的齿轮制作十分精美,里面外都作了精细的打磨。 很明显的看出积家的技术含量要比PF高,特别是八日链的机芯刚上满发条时的第一天和第八天发条鼓输出的扭力相差巨大,要有效的控制动力输送,28800震频+双跳大日历的机芯要走八日对发条鼓的设计和传动系统的精度轻量化要求很高,而PF走的是传统的道路,起用大发条鼓,和稍低的21600震频来保证八日的动力输出。 实际使用中积家的八日链比PF的八日链走时稳定很多。
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总结: 一个是制表师眼中的大师积家 和独立品牌中的蓝血贵族帕玛强尼都能为我们提供精彩的作品。 在二手市场上价位相约的情况下我个人觉得这两个都是特佳之选。
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https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/938f2a58c1534cfaa0ea2d84c0dc88cc~tplv-tt-large.image?x-expires=1974352876&x-signature=OAw0ACyOSPTkUyU3ucLZJd7pPNc%3D
https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/aab25a0008e34206948c5f8619751ec1~tplv-tt-large.image?x-expires=1974352876&x-signature=rGvdtevlx4XxC4itHfYixCoWneM%3D
https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/21f114e1e64f4ce3ade717f965a40fcd~tplv-tt-large.image?x-expires=1974352876&x-signature=i9T%2FFFjMGsTDZ7X7Jong%2Fu4lkLM%3D 积家做的越来越敷衍,帕玛强尼从来不降低标准,每个帕玛强尼的机芯都堪称艺术品,积家做不到。
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